Method and makeup kit containing goniochromatic and monochromatic pigments

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a new makeup kit comprising a first, goniochromatic pigment composition which is intended to form a base layer and a second, conventional pigment composition having one of the colors of the first pigment, the second composition being intended to form a surface layer comprising decorative motifs. Depending on the viewing angle, therefore, it is possible to see the said motifs appear or disappear. This kit is intended in particular for making up the nails, lips, cheeks or eyelids, or else the body. The invention also relates to a method of making up the human face, lips or body.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic product, a makeup kitcontaining the product, and a method of making up the human body usingthe cosmetic product.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0002] The present invention relates to a makeup kit intended for anovel type of makeup combining a first, goniochromatic pigment and asecond pigment, especially a monochromatic pigment, having one of thecolors of the first pigment. This kit comprises two cosmetic makeupcompositions which can be applied to the skin on both the face and otherparts of the human body, to the lips and to the exoskeletal appendagessuch as the nails, eyelashes, eyebrows or hair. The invention alsorelates to a bilayer makeup method.

[0003] Each composition can be a loose or compact powder, a foundation,a rouge or eyeshadow, a concealer, a blusher, a lipstick, a lip or eyepencil, or else a nail varnish, or a body makeup product.

[0004] The makeup compositions consist of a suitable vehicle and variouscolorants which are intended to impart a certain color to thecompositions before and/or after their application to the skin, lips orexoskeletal appendages.

DISCUSSION OF THE BACKGROUND

[0005] The range of colorants employed at present by cosmeticians isfairly limited; they are mainly organic pigments, lakes, inorganicpigments and pearlescent pigments. The lakes allow the production ofvivid colors but are for the most part unstable to light, heat and pH.Some of them have the further disadvantage of unsightly marking of theskin after application owing to emergence of the dye. The inorganicpigments, especially the inorganic oxides, on the other hand, are highlystable but give colors which tend to be dull and pale. The pearlescentpigments, for their part, allow the production of colors which arevaried but never intense, with iridescent effects which are, however,usually weak.

[0006] To overcome these disadvantages, the Applicant envisaged usinggoniochromatic pigments; that is, pigments which have colors that varydepending on the viewing angle and light incidence and which impartiridescent effects in somewhat the same way as a pearlescent product.Reference may be made in particular to the application EP-A-815826.

[0007] Certain conventional makeup products, moreover, allow thecreation of decorative effects with colored motifs: drawings, chequeredpatterns, letters, etc. However, these motifs are visible at any viewingangle, so making the makeup “static”.

[0008] With makeup artists and consumers looking more and more forspecial effects and original colors, the Applicant has discovered anovel type of makeup using goniochromatic pigments. By using a bilayerproduct whose underlayer contains at least one goniochromatic pigment,the Applicant has found, surprisingly, that it is possible to trace ordraw motifs on such a layer (letters, drawings, chequered patterns,etc.), in particular with a pencil or fine brush, and that, depending onthe direction from which they are observed, the motifs appear ordisappear. The invention has a novel makeup effect: the colored motifsappear and disappear in accordance with the movements of the personwearing the makeup. The makeup therefore appears to be “alive”.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0009]FIG. 1 shows the reflectance of the varnish layers 1 and 2expressed as a percentage (% of light transmitted) as a function of thewavelength expressed in nm. This reflectance was measured in accordancewith observation perpendicular to the layers 1 and 2. The solid line isthe reflectance of layer 1 and the dashed line is the reflectance oflayer 2.

[0010] These curves clearly indicate that the color obtained for the twolayers is the same in the direction perpendicular to the layers and thatthere is no metamerism: that is, a change in color depending on thenature of illumination. Therefore, viewed in natural light, the makeupwill be identical to that viewed in artificial light.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] The invention more specifically provides a makeup kit comprisinga first composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium and atleast one first colorant and a second composition comprising acosmetically acceptable medium and at least one second colorant, one ofthe colorants being a goniochromatic colorant which is able to producedifferent colors depending on the light incidence and viewing angle andthe—other a monochromatic colorant which produces one of the colors ofthe goniochromatic colorant.

[0012] The invention additionally provides a method of making up thehuman skin, lips and/or exoskeletal appendages, which comprises applyingto the skin, lips and/or exoskeletal appendages a first layer of a firstcomposition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium and at least onefirst colorant and then applying to part of the said first layer asecond layer of a second composition comprising a cosmeticallyacceptable medium and at least one second colorant, one of the first andsecond colorants being a goniochromatic colorant able to producedifferent colors depending on the light incidence and the viewing angleand the other colorant being a monochromatic colorant which produces oneof the colors of the goniochromatic colorant.

[0013] The document WO-A-96/39307 from Flex Products describes acombination of two layers of motifs, each layer comprisinggoniochromatic pigments, which can be used in inks and automotivefinishes. This document does not envisage the use of this combination toobtain an original makeup form nor the replacement of one of thegoniochromatic pigments by conventional monochromatic pigments giving acolor identical to one of the colors of the goniochromatic layer.

[0014] The invention additionally provides a cosmetic makeup productcomprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one first colorantand at least one second colorant, one of the first and second colorantsbeing a goniochromatic colorant able to produce different colorsdepending on the light incidence and viewing angle and the other being amonochromatic colorant which produces one of the colors of thegoniochromatic colorant. Preferably, the first and second colorants arepackaged separately in, respectively, first and second cosmeticallyacceptable compositions.

[0015] Advantageously, these two compositions are packaged in separatecompartments or containers and are accompanied by appropriate means ofapplication.

[0016] According to the invention, the second layer is applied to onlypart of the first layer. It can be applied alternatively to one of theends of the first layer, or in the middle, or else discontinuously, inparticular in the form of geometric, symmetric or asymmetric motifs (forexample, in the form of dots, squares, circles, stars, alphanumericinscriptions or any other symbol, figurative or otherwise) which are inrandom or ordered distribution and have sharp or fuzzy outlines. Hence,at one viewing angle, especially perpendicular to the second layer, themotifs of this second layer will disappear, because their color will beidentical to that of the goniochromatic layer, and, in the otherdirections, the motifs will appear because of their different color fromthat of the first layer.

[0017] The first colorant is preferably the goniochromatic colorant andthe second the monochromatic colorant, although the reverse is possible.

[0018] This bilayer architecture can be adapted for all makeup productsfor the skin as well as for the face, scalp and body, the mucosae suchas the lips and the inside of the lower eyelids, and the exoskeletalappendages such as the nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and the hair—on thehead or even elsewhere. The second layer, which forms motifs, can beapplied with a pen, pencil or any other instrument (sponge, finger,coarse or fine brush, quill, nib, etc.). This architecture may also beapplied to makeup accessories such as false nails, false eyelashes,hairpieces, or else discs or patches which adhere to the skin or lips(of the beauty-spot type).

[0019] The invention additionally relates to a made-up substratecomprising a first layer of a first composition comprising at least onefirst colorant and a second layer of a second composition deposited inpart on the first layer and comprising at least one second colorant, oneof the colorants being a goniochromatic colorant able to producedifferent colors depending on the light incidence and viewing angle andthe other colorant being a monochromatic colorant which produces one ofthe colors of the goniochromatic colorant.

[0020] The invention also provides a cosmetic composition forimplementing the above makeup method. This composition comprises acosmetically acceptable medium and at least one goniochromatic colorantable to produce different colors depending on the light incidence andviewing angle, the colorant being selected advantageously frommultilayer interference structures.

[0021] The first (or second) composition of the invention may compriseone or more goniochromatic colorants selected from mesomorphoric andliquid-crystal (LC) colorants and multilayer interference structures.Preference is given to using a single goniochromatic colorant on accountof ease of use and low production cost.

[0022] The LC colorants are, in particular, linear or cyclic monomers orpolymers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted, especiallycholesteric or nematic groups. The LC colorants comprise, for example,silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted.The LC colorants are selected in particular from cyclicorganopolysiloxanes grafted with cholesteric and biphenyl-type groups.These grafted organopolysiloxanes are, in particular, crosslinked inaccordance with a three-dimensional structure.

[0023] The LC colorants are selected in particular from cyclic siliconesof the formula

[0024] in which:

[0025] 0≦x≦1 (preferably 1); 0≦y≦1 (preferably 1); 0≦z≦1 (preferably 1)where x+y+z≠0; 3≦t=10;

[0026] R denotes a group of the following formula:

[0027] R′ denotes a group of the following formula:

[0028] and

[0029] R″ denotes a group of the following formula:

[0030] These compounds are generally present in the form of amorphouswhite powders. They have the particular feature of exhibiting theobservation-direction-dependent color change effect only as a functionof the substrate (and, in particular, its color) on which they arespread.

[0031] As examples of LC colorants meeting this definition, mention maybe made in particular of the “LC” pigments from the company Wacker whichare called SLM 41101 (blue/green), SLM 41102 (red/gold) and SLM 41103(yellow/green), and LC PIGMENT GRUN 516 S VP (blue/green) (see also thedocument EP-A-815826).

[0032] Goniochromatic colorants with multilayer structures are, inparticular, those described in the following documents: U.S. Pat. No.3,438,796, EP-A-227423, U.S. Pat. No. 5,135,812, EP-A-170439,EP-A-341002, U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,930,866, 5,641,719, EP-A-472371,EP-A-395410, EP-A-753545, EP-A-768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154,EP-A-579091, U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,411,586, 5,364,467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4225 031, WO 9517479 (BASF), and DE-A-196 14 637. They are in the form offlakes with a metallic color.

[0033] The multilayer structures which can be used in the invention are,for example, the following structures: Al/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Al;Cr/MgF₂/Al/MgF₂/Al; MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; MoS₂/SiO₂/oxide mica/SiO₂/MoS₂;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/oxide mica/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃ Different colors are obtained dependingon the thickness of the various layers. Thus with the structureFe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃ the range is from greenish gold to reddish greyfor SiO₂ layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for SiO₂ layers of380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO₂ layers of 410 to 420 nm;and from copper to red for SiO₂ layers of 430 to 440 nm.

[0034] It is also possible to use birefringent multilayer structurescomprising an alternating sequence of polymeric layers of thepolyethylene naphthalate and polyethylene terephthalate type, asdescribed in the document WO-A-96/19347.

[0035] The second (or first) composition of the invention may compriseone or more monochromatic colorants selected from monochromatic dyes,monochromatic pigments and nacreous pigments which are conventionallyemployed in cosmetic compositions, and combinations thereof. Accordingto the invention, the assembly of these colorants must exhibit one ofthe colors of the goniochromatic colorant or of the assembly ofgoniochromatic colorants.

[0036] By pigments is meant white or colored, organic or inorganicparticles which are insoluble in the liquid fatty phase and are intendedfor coloring and/or opacifying the second composition. By nacreouspigments are meant iridescent particles, produced in particular bycertain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized. By dyes are meantcompounds, generally organic, which are soluble in fatty substances suchas oils or in an aqueous-alcoholic phase.

[0037] The colorants of the first and second layers can be present in aproportion of from 0.01 to 60% of the total weight, respectively, of thefirst composition and second composition, preferably from 0.05 to 30%and, more particularly, from 1 to 20%, for non-pulverulent compositions.For pulverulent compositions, the amount of colorants can be up to 85%or even up to 98%.

[0038] As monochromatic inorganic pigments which can be used in theinvention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, andof cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide and chromium oxide, andiron blue. Among organic pigments which can be used in the invention,mention may be made of carbon black and barium, strontium, calcium andaluminum lakes.

[0039] The dyes can be fat-soluble or water-soluble. Fat-soluble dyesare, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soyaoil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and QuinolineYellow. They can represent from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of thesecond composition and, more preferably, from 0.1 to 10%. Thewater-soluble dyes are, in particular, copper sulphate, iron sulphate,water-soluble sulphopolyesters such as those described in the documentFR-96 154152, rhodamines, natural dyes (carotene, beetroot juice) andMethylene Blue.

[0040] The nacreous pigments can be present in the second composition ina proportion of from 0 to 20% of the total weight of the said secondcomposition, preferably in an amount of the order of from 1 to 15%.Among nacreous pigments which can be used in the second composition,mention may be made of mica coated with titanium dioxide, with ironoxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride, such as coloredtitanium mica.

[0041] The first and second compositions according to the invention can,moreover, comprise all of the ingredients which are conventionallyemployed in the fields in question and, more specifically, in the fieldsof cosmetology and dermatology. These ingredients are selected inparticular from preservatives, stabilizers, neutralizing agents,aqueous-phase thickeners (polysaccharide biopolymers, syntheticpolymers) or fatty-phase thickeners, such as clay minerals, fillers,perfumes, hydrophilic or lipophilic active substances, surfactants,antioxidants, film-forming polymers and mixtures thereof. The amounts ofthese various ingredients are those conventionally employed in thefields in question and, for example, from 0.01 to 30% of the totalweight of the composition. The nature of these ingredients and theirproportion must be compatible with the production of compositionsaccording to the invention which are stable, thickened and bright. Thecomposition can also comprise water in a concentration of from 0 to 95%of the total weight of the composition, or organic solvents, which canrepresent up to 90%.

[0042] By fillers are meant lamellar or non-lamellar, synthetic orinorganic, white or colorless particles. These fillers can be introducedinto the first or second layers in order, in particular, to modify thetexture of these compositions. They can be present in a proportion offrom 0 to 35% of the total weight of each composition, preferably from0.5 to 15%. Mention may be made in particular of talc, zinc stearate,mica, kaolin, nylon powders (especially orgasol) and polyethylenepowders, Teflon, starch, boron nitride, copolymer microspheres such asExpancel (Nobel Industrie), polytrap (Dow Corning), and silicone resinmicrobeads (Tospearl from Toshiba, for example), or else silica.

[0043] The first and second compositions of the invention advantageouslycomprise a fatty phase containing fatty substances which are liquid,solid or pastelike at room temperature. The fatty substances which aresolid at room temperature permit structuring of the composition; theyare selected from gums and/or waxes. The waxes can be hydrocarbon waxes,fluoro waxes and/or silicone waxes and can be vegetable, mineral, animaland/or synthetic in origin. In particular, the waxes have a meltingpoint of more than 25° C. and, more preferably, more than 45° C.

[0044] As waxes which can be used in the first and second compositionsof the invention, mention may be made of lanolin, beeswax, carnauba waxor candellila wax, paraffin, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes,ceresin or ozocerite; synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes,Fischer-Tropsch waxes, and silicone waxes such as the alkyl- oralkoxydimethicones having 16 to 45 carbon atoms.

[0045] The gums are, in particular, organopolysiloxanes having anaverage molecular weight of from 1000 to 500,000.

[0046] The nature and amount of these gums and waxes depend on thedesired textural and mechanical properties. By way of indication, eachcomposition can contain from 0 to 50% by weight of waxes relative to thetotal weight of the composition and, more preferably, from 5 to 30%.

[0047] As fatty substances which are liquid at room temperature and canbe used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of:

[0048] hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

[0049] vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as the liquid triglycerides offatty acids with 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides ofheptanoic or octanoic acid, or else sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil,marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,macadamia oil, castor oil and avocado oil, the triglycerides ofcaprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company StearineriesDubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by thecompany Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, karite butter;

[0050] linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin,such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, vaseline, polydecenes,hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam; isoparaffins such asisohexadecane and isodecane;

[0051] synthetic ethers and esters, especially those of fatty acids,such as oils of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ represents the radical of ahigher fatty acid having from 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R₂ represents ahydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, forexample, purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate and isostearylisostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate,triisocetyl citrate and fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates anddecanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate,neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; andthe esters of pentaerythritol;

[0052] fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such asoctyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanoland oleyl alcohol;

[0053] partially fluorinated hydrocarbon and/or silicone oils, such asthose described in the document JP-A-2-295912;

[0054] silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), volatile orotherwise, linear or cyclic and liquid or pastelike at room temperature;phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, diphenyldimethicones,phenyldimethicones and phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes;

[0055] fluorinated oils and fluorosilicone oils; and

[0056] mixtures thereof.

[0057] These oils can represent from 0 to 99.9% of the total weight ofeach composition.

[0058] As volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention,mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl groups havingfrom 1 to 10 carbon atoms. These silicones are therefore, in particular,hexamethyldisiloxane and cyclopenta- or cyclotetra- orcyclohexadimethylsiloxane. These volatile oils can represent from 0 to50% of the total weight of the composition.

[0059] As solvents which can be used in the invention, mention may bemade of:

[0060] ketones which are liquid at room temperature, such as methylethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone,cyclohexanone and acetone;

[0061] alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, such as ethanol,isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol and cyclohexanol;

[0062] glycols which are liquid at room temperature, such as ethyleneglycol, propylene glycol and pentylene glycol;

[0063] propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at room temperature,such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethylacetate and dipropylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether;

[0064] short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total)such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetateand isopentyl acetate;

[0065] ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as diethylether, dimethyl ether and dichlorodiethyl ether;

[0066] alkanes which are liquid at room temperature, such as decane,heptane, dodecane and cyclohexane;

[0067] cyclic aromatic compounds which are liquid at room temperature,such as toluene and xylene; and

[0068] aldehydes which are liquid at room temperature, such asbenzaldehyde and acetaldehyde.

[0069] These solvents are especially suitable for nailcare and nailmakeup: the composition in that case constitutes a nail varnish or anail care product. Other solvents which can be used include water andaqueous-alcohol media.

[0070] As film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention,mention may be made of nitrocellulose, cellulose acetobutyrate,polyvinylbutyrals, alkyd resins, resins resulting from the condensationof formaldehyde with an arylsulphonamide, polyesters, polyurethanes,polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, radical polymers, inparticular of the acrylic, styrene-acrylic and/or vinyl type, andmixtures thereof.

[0071] The polymers can be dissolved or dispersed in the composition.They can generally be present at a level ranging from 0.5 to 40% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition and, morepreferably, ranging from 10 to 20% by weight.

[0072] In addition to the film-forming polymer or polymers, thecomposition according to the invention can also comprise plasticizerswhich allow the flexibility of the polymer film to be adjusted withoutlessening its physical strength. Plasticizers which can be used arethose commonly employed in nail varnish compositions. Plasticizers whichmay be mentioned are dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl phthalate, diisobutylphthalate and dimethoxyethyl phthalate, benzyl benzoate and glycerylbenzoate; triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate and tributyl acetylcitrate; tributyl phosphate and triphenyl phosphate; glycols; camphor,and derivatives and mixtures thereof. The plasticizers can be present ingeneral at a level ranging from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition and, more preferably, from 5 to 10% by weight.

[0073] The compositions of the invention can be present in any of thepharmaceutical forms which are normally employed for topicalapplication, and, in particular, in the form of an aqueous or oilysolution, an aqueous or oily gel, an oil-in-water or water-in-oilemulsion, a vesicular dispersion of oil in water, the vesicles beingsituated at the oil/water interface, or else a powder. Each compositionmay have the appearance of a lotion, cream, pomade, easily worked paste,ointment, a cast or molded solid, especially a stick or small cup, orelse a compacted solid.

[0074] The product according to the invention can be advantageously usedfor making up the skin and/or mucosae and/or exoskeletal appendages,depending on the nature of the ingredients used. In particular, eachcomposition of the invention may be in the form of a lipstick or lipgloss paste, a solid foundation, a concealer or eye-contour product,eyeliner, mascara, eyeshadow, aqueous or solvent-based nail varnish, abody makeup product or else a skin coloring product. These compositionsmay, furthermore, comprise cosmetic or dermatological active substancesfor the purpose, in particular, of imparting a beauty or treatmentaspect to the composition. Hence these compositions may comprisevitamins and other lipophilic active substances (lanolin, UVA screen) orhydrophilic active substances (moisturizers such as glycerin).

[0075] The invention also relates to a lip product, foundation, tattoo,nail varnish, blusher or eyeshadow comprising a cosmetically acceptablemedium and first and second compositions as described above.

[0076] The invention also provides for the use of the above cosmeticproduct for making motifs on the human skin and/or lips and/orexoskeletal appendages appear or disappear depending on the viewingangle.

[0077] The compositions of the invention can be obtained by heating thevarious constituents at the melting point of the highest waxes and thencasting the molten mixture in a mold (dish or glove finger). They mayalso be obtained by extrusion as described in the application EP-A-667146.

EXAMPLES

[0078] The following composition examples are given by way ofillustration and without any limitative nature. The quantities giventherein are in % by weight.

[0079] Exemplary Embodiment: Nail Varnish

[0080] a) The varnish base (called VAO base) used for the two layers isas follows: aliphatic polyurethane (film former) 33.9 gN-methylpyrrolidone (stabilizer) 8.2 g triethylamine (neutralizingagent) 1.9 g tributyl acetylcitrate 3.2 g water q.s. 100 g

[0081] b) The composition for forming the first nail varnish layer 1 isproduced with: VAO base 95 g Wacker LC Pigments LC PIGMENT  5 g

[0082] GRUN 516 S VP

[0083] This composition is obtained by mixing the VAO base and thepigments with stirring at room temperature. Its color changes dependingon the viewing angle and varies from dark blue to dark green. Thiscomposition is applied continuously to nails without makeup, in the formof a single layer.

[0084] c) The composition for forming the second nail varnish layer 2 iscomposed of: VAO base 90.00 g  60% aqueous dispersion of titanium 4.73 gdioxide (C.I. 77891) in a water/glycerol/surfactant mixture (16/18/5)40% dispersion of Permanent Carmine FB 0.13 g in a water/glycerol/sodiumlauryl ether sulphate mixture (29.7/25/5) 42% aqueous dispersion ofHansa Yellow 1.51 g G (C.I. 11680) in a water/glycerol/sodium laurylether sulphate mixture (27.7/25/5) 48% dispersion of PhthalocyanineGreen 3.63 g FB (C.I. 74260) in a water/glycerol/sodium lauryl ethersulphate mixture (21.7/25/5) preservatives q.s.

[0085] The composition of layer 2 has a green color which is identicalto one of the colors of the composition of layer 1. This composition isobtained by mixing the pigments and the VAO base in the mannerconventional for producing a varnish.

[0086] This composition is applied by brush to the layer 1 to formmotifs (dots, stars, butterflies). After the two-layer varnish hasdried, it reveals only a homogeneous green color of the nail when viewedin a direction perpendicular to the surface (or the nail surface) andreveals green motifs against a blue background when viewed in adifferent direction.

[0087] The priority document of the present application, French patent9804581 filed Apr. 10, 1998, is incorporated herein by reference.

[0088] Obviously, additional modifications and variations of the presentinvention are possible in light of the above teachings. It is thereforeto be understood that within the scope of the appended claims, theinvention may be practiced otherwise than as specifically describedherein.

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: a cosmetically acceptable medium;at least one first colorant; and at least one second colorant; whereinsaid first colorant is a goniochromatic colorant able to producedifferent colors depending on the light incidence and viewing angle, andsaid second colorant is a monochromatic colorant which produces one ofthe colors of said goniochromatic colorant.
 2. The composition accordingto claim 1, wherein said goniochromatic colorant is selected from thegroup consisting of mesomorphic colorants and multilayer interferencestructures.
 3. The composition according to claim 2, wherein saidmesomorphic colorants are selected from the group consisting of linearand cyclic polymers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted.
 4. Thecomposition according to claim 3, wherein said polymers are selectedfrom silicone polymers and cellulose ethers onto which cholesteric orsubstituted or unsubstituted biphenyl groups are grafted.
 5. Thecomposition according to claim 4, wherein said silicone polymer has thestructure of formula (I):

wherein 0≦x≦1; 0≦y≦1; 0≦z≦1 where x+y+z≠0; 3≦t≦10; R denotes a group ofthe following formula:

R′ denotes a group of the following formula:

and R″ denotes a group of the following formula:


6. The composition according to claim 5, wherein x=y=z=1.
 7. Thecomposition according to claim 2, wherein said goniochromatic colorantcomprises a multilayer interference structure selected the groupconsisting of Al/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Al; Cr/MgF₂/Al/MgF₂/Al;MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; MoS₂/SiO₂/oxide mica/SiO₂/MoS₂; andFe₂O₃/SiO₂/oxide mica/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃.
 8. The composition according to claim1, wherein said monochromatic colorant is selected from the groupconsisting of monochromatic dyes, monochromatic pigments, nacreouspigments, and mixtures thereof.
 9. The composition according to claim 1,wherein said monochromatic colorant is selected from the groupconsisting of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide,iron oxides, chromium oxide, iron blue, carbon black; barium, strontium,calcium and aluminum lakes; Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6,β-carotene, soya oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange5, Quinoline Yellow; mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide,with natural pigment, bismuth oxychloride, and colored titanium mica.10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein each said colorantrepresents from 0.01 to 98% of the total weight of the product.
 11. Thecomposition according to claim 1, wherein each said colorant representsfrom 0.05 to 85% of the total weight of the product.
 12. The compositionaccording to claim 1, wherein said cosmetic makeup product is in theform of foundation, nail varnish, a body makeup product, lip makeupproduct, blusher or eyeshadow.
 13. The composition according to claim 1,wherein said first and second colorants are packaged, respectively, infirst and second compositions each comprising a cosmetically acceptablemedium.
 14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmeticmakeup product is in a form selected from the group consisting of anoily solution, an aqueous solution, an oily gel, an aqueous gel, anoil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a vesicular dispersionof oil in water wherein the vesicles are located at the oil/waterinterface, and a powder.
 15. The composition according to claim 1,wherein said cosmetically acceptable medium contains at least oneingredient selected from the group consisting of oils, solvents, waxes,film-forming polymers, fillers, hydrophilic or lipophilic activesubstances, aqueous-phase thickeners, fatty-phase thickeners,surfactants, antioxidants, perfumes, plasticizers, neutralizing agents,stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.
 16. A method of making up the humanskin, lips and/or exoskeletal appendages, which comprises: applying to asubstrate a first layer of a first composition; and applying on saidfirst layer a second layer of a second composition; wherein saidsubstrate is selected from the group consisting of skin, lips and/orexoskeletal appendages, said first composition comprises a cosmeticallyacceptable medium and at least one first colorant and the secondcomposition comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium and at least onesecond colorant; wherein at least one of said first or one of saidsecond colorants is a goniochromatic colorant able to produce differentcolors depending on the light incidence and the viewing angle, and theother colorant is a monochromatic colorant which produces one of thecolors of the goniochromatic colorant.
 17. The method according to claim16, wherein said second layer is discontinuous.
 18. The method accordingto claim 16, wherein said second layer comprises motifs.
 19. The methodaccording to claims 18, wherein said motifs are distributed randomly,symmetrically or asymmetrically on said second layer.
 20. The methodaccording to claim 16, wherein said goniochromatic colorant is selectedfrom the group consisting of mesomorphic colorants and multilayerinterference structures.
 21. The method according to claim 16, whereinsaid goniochromatic colorant comprises a multilayer interferencestructure selected from the group consisting of Al/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Al;Cr/MgF₂/Al/MgF₂/Al; MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; MoS₂/SiO₂/oxide mica/SiO₂/MoS₂; andFe₂O₃/SiO₂/oxide mica/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃.
 22. The method according to claim 20,wherein said mesomorphic colorant is selected from linear and cyclicpolymers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted.
 23. The methodaccording to claim 22, wherein said goniochromatic colorant is selectedfrom silicone polymers and cellulose ethers onto which cholesteric andbiphenyl-type groups are grafted.
 24. The method according to claim 18,wherein said monochromatic colorant is selected from the groupconsisting of monochromatic dyes, monochromatic pigments, nacreouspigments, and mixtures thereof.
 25. The method according to claim 24,wherein said monochromatic colorant is selected from titanium oxide,zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide,iron blue, carbon black; barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum lakes;Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soya oil, Sudan Brown, DCYellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Quinoline Yellow; mica coated withtitanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment, bismuth oxychloride, orcolored titanium mica.
 26. A makeup kit comprising: a first compositioncomprising a cosmetically acceptable medium and at least one firstcolorant; and a second composition comprising a cosmetically acceptablemedium and at least one second colorant; wherein one of said firstcolorants is a goniochromatic colorant which is able to producedifferent colors depending on the light incidence and viewing angle andsaid second colorant is a monochromatic colorant which produces one ofthe colors of the goniochromatic colorant.
 27. The makeup kit accordingto claim 26, wherein said first and second colorants are packagedseparately in, respectively, first and second compositions comprising acosmetically acceptable medium.
 28. The makeup kit according to claim26, wherein said goniochromatic colorant is selected from the groupconsisting of mesomorphic colorants and multilayer interferencestructures.
 29. The makeup kit according to claim 28, wherein saidmesomorphic colorant is selected from linear and cyclic polymers ontowhich mesomorphic groups are grafted.
 30. The makeup kit according toclaim 29, wherein said polymers comprise a silicone-containing orcellulose ether polymer onto which cholesteric and biphenyl-type groupsare grafted.
 31. The makeup kit according to claim 30, wherein thesilicone-containing polymer has formula (I):

wherein 0≦x≦1; 0≦y≦1; 0≦z≦1 where x+y+z≠0; 3≦t≦10; R denotes a group ofthe following formula:

R′ denotes a group of the following formula:

and R″ denotes a group of the following formula:


32. The makeup kit according to claim 31, wherein x=y=z=1.
 33. Themakeup kit according to claim 28, wherein said colorant having amultilayer structure is selected from the group consisting ofAl/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Al; Cr/MgF₂/Al/MgF₂/Al; MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; MoS₂/SiO₂/oxidemica/SiO₂/MoS₂; and Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/oxide mica/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃.
 34. The makeup kitaccording to claim 26, wherein said monochromatic colorant is selectedfrom the group consisting of monochromatic dyes, monochromatic pigments,nacreous pigments, and mixtures thereof.
 35. The makeup kit according toclaim 26, wherein the monochromatic colorant is selected from the groupconsisting of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide,iron oxide, chromium oxide, iron blue, carbon black; barium, strontium,calcium and aluminum lakes; Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6,β-carotene, soya oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange5, Quinoline Yellow; mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide,natural pigment, bismuth oxychloride, and colored titanium mica.
 36. Themakeup kit according to claim 26, wherein said makeup kit furthercomprises applicators for applying the first and second compositions tothe skin, mucosae, exoskeletal appendages and combinations thereof. 37.The makeup kit according to claim 36, wherein said applicators areselected from the group consisting of fine and coarse brushes, stylos,pens, quills, nibs and pencils.
 38. The makeup kit according to one ofclaim 26, wherein said first and second compositions are packaged inseparate compartments or containers.
 39. The makeup kit according toclaim 26, wherein said cosmetically acceptable medium contains at leastone ingredient selected from the group consisting of oils, solvents,waxes, film-forming polymers, fillers, hydrophilic active substances,lipophilic active substances, aqueous-phase thickeners, fatty-phasethickeners, surfactants, antioxidants, perfumes, plasticizers,neutralizing agents and stabilizers.
 40. The makeup kit according toclaim 26, wherein said compositions are in a form selected from thegroup consisting of an oily solution, an aqueous solution, an oily gel,an aqueous gel, oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, powder,and a vesicular dispersion of oil in water, wherein said vesicles arelocated at the oil/water interface.
 41. The makeup kit according toclaim 26, wherein said compositions are in a form selected from thegroup consisting of foundation, nail varnish, a body makeup product, alip makeup product, blusher, and eyeshadow.
 42. One or more coloredmotifs on human skin, lips, mucosae, exoskeletal appendages orcombinations thereof, prepared by the method of claim
 16. 43. Acomposition comprising: a cosmetically acceptable medium; and at leastone goniochromatic colorant able to produce different colors dependingon the light incidence and viewing angle.
 44. The composition of claim43, wherein said goniochromatic colorant is selected from the groupconsisting of mesomorphic colorants and multilayer interferencestructures.
 45. The composition according to claim 43, wherein saidgoniochromatic colorant is selected from the group consisting of linearand cyclic polymers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted.
 46. Thecomposition of claim 45, wherein said polymers are selected from thegroup consisting of silicone polymers and cellulose ethers onto whichcholesteric or substituted or unsubstituted biphenyl groups are grafted.47. The composition of claim 46, wherein said silicone polymer has thestructure of formula (I):

wherein 0≦x≦1; 0≦y≦1; 0≦z≦1 where x+y+z≠0; 3≦t≦10; R denotes a group ofthe following formula:

R′ denotes a group of the following formula:

and R″ denotes a group of the following formula:


48. The composition according to claim 45, wherein said multilayerinterference structure is selected from the group consisting of thestructures Al/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Al; Cr/MgF₂/Al/MgF₂/Al;MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂03/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; MoS₂/SiO₂/oxide mica/SiO₂/MoS₂; andFe₂O₃/SiO₂/oxide mica/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃.
 49. A made-up substrate comprising: afirst layer of a first composition further comprising at least one firstcolorant; and a second layer of a second composition deposited on thefirst layer and further comprising at least one second colorant; whereinone of said first or second colorants is a goniochromatic colorant ableto produce different colors depending on the light incidence and viewingangle, and wherein the other colorant is a monochromatic colorant whichproduces one of the colors of the goniochromatic colorant.
 50. Themade-up substrate according to claim 49, wherein said made-up substrateis in a form selected from the group of false nails, false eyelashes andhairpieces.
 51. The made-up substrate according to claim 49, wherein thesecond layer is discontinuous.
 52. The made-up substrate according toclaim 49, wherein the second layer comprises motifs in random or ordereddistribution.